Louis Vuitton Cruise/Resort 2015 in Monaco by Nicholas Ghesquire
It has been really hard and conflicting for me since Nicholas Ghesquire was announced as the Louis Vuitton Creative Director last year. My loyalty to Marc Jacobs and his genius runs deep and strong, while I adore Ghesquire to the same degree, the way LVMH handled Marc’s leaving was weird and impolite to me. Hey, but at least there was no scandal like the John Galliano set up and take down. Marc Jacobs has been rocking the fucking pretentious fashion scene since the 90s and he will continue to do so with his namesake collection in NYC. And over in the new world of Louis Vuitton, we have the devilishly handsome and extremely intelligent Nicholas Ghesquire redefining the look of this 200+ years old maison.
Ghesquire’s outting for Fall Winter 2014 was a palette cleansing collection that def put him back in the game. And now I think he’s fully back with the Louis Vuitton Cruise collection he just showed in Monaco. So a lot of people wrote about the pomp and circumstance around the venue, the lcd screened floors and the celebs at the show. And I think all of that is real nice and all, but all I really give a shit about is the clothes! and the accessories! Do I wanna wear this shit?! Do I wanna be the Ghesquire Vuitton woman?!! And the answer to that question after watching the live stream on the inter webs was… YES ABSO FUCKING LUTELY I do.
Ghesquire’s cruise collection is everything I love from him when he was at Balenciaga, cool fabrics, modern but some how timeless silhouettes, fantastic colors and cool accessories, always that perfect line of not trying too hard. All of this fun shit with an underlying nod to the 60’s and 70’s. And for the most part I loved the casting… casting has always been the hardest part for me at a Ghesquire show, he tends to like anorexic looking 14 year old girls. And as an active person in the fashion industry, I hate that. I know it makes the clothes look better to show on a very skinny girl with a blank and transformable look, but I just love a real woman's body. I wish Ghesquire would use some fuller bodied women (and I don’t mean Gisele cuz she’s still mega skinny in my book). I just hate the vibe of pre adolescent girls, it’s not inspiring to me, it’s sad. I am not saying his casting needs to be all bigger girls, I am just saying it would be nice to have a variety of bodies in the mix. Also to show what the clothes would look like on a body, not a stick. But all that being said, I loved the collection anyway.
Let’s just talk for a second about the new softness that Ghesquire has been showing us at Louis Vuitton. In his previous collections at Balenciaga, I always noticed a bit of coldness in the look, presentation and clothes. Before Ghesquire, was more costume-y with the collections he put out at Balenciaga. I love his first two collections for LV because of their “realness,” I want to take the clothes and wear them now. I could easily adopt the shoe, the bag, the dress, the trouser into my wardrobe seamlessly right now. Before the shoes and look at Balenciaga were hard to wear, beautiful but uncomfortable and very much a “look”. Ghesquire’s Balenciaga brought us robot leggings, massive hunch back swing coats, mega fur trimmed riding jackets, and all sorts of gorgeous sculpted clothing. And I loved it all and bought as much as I could afford at the time. But it was all very much a “moment” and “look”. Fashion has changed so much in the sense of what women want. Women don’t necessarily wanna dress like a sexy C3PO anymore. Wealthy women who buy these kinds of clothes are increasingly less peacock-esque. The 2000’s were filled with fashion for fashion’s sake, showing your wealth and fashion flare via a sculpted leather laser cut ballerina skirt and impossibly high LEGO shoes. And now it all feels a bit clown. I own tons of these clothes and while I know this style will come back around, something about the understated but painfully chic style of dressing “real” is more luxurious. Hence the rise of Normcore. Actually being comfortable in my expensive clothes, designer clothes, is the ultimate luxury. And I am so happy and relieved Ghesquire has embraced this new way of dressing and upped the ante on this style of dressing in his short time already at Vuitton. I think that’s why Vuitton hired him. Because not only can he design a desirable shoe and bag, he can also design clothes that fly off the shelf. And these first two LV collections will fly off the shelf, the fashion flock are already swooning.
All of this talk about comfort and understatement doesn’t mean this cruise collection is for a wall flower. There are lace see through but super chic numbers that really rev my engine as a constant fashion boundary pusher. I have always been that girl who loves to wear see through clothing in public, non fashion situations. Maybe I like to shock people, maybe I just don’t give a fuck what people think. That’s more of the case, I like clothes because I like them, and I don’t give a rat’s ass if anyone else thinks I am cool or slutty or whatever. I dress for me and for some reason I love sheerness. Although I do usually try to keep my nips and other privates covered in fun colored underwears. Vuitton Cruise has plenty of fun sheer numbers to keep me happy with my fashion exhibitionist personality. Also loving the flounce on the shift dresses and jackets, obsessed with the coated and treated leathers, inspired by the gorgeous embroideries on most of the collection. And I know I poo poo-ed the skinny girls on this runway, but the high-waisted skirted silhouettes are fantastic for full figured women with shape. And I am fully in love with the pink leisure suit. Who doesn’t need, want, have to have a pink leisure suit?!!!
This was a particularly exciting Resort/Cruise 2015 collection (most resort collections are sad commercial water downed boringness), and I am happy and relieved to see Nicholas Ghesquire in fantastic form! Cannot wait to see his Spring/Summer 2015 collection, I await it with bated breath.